CABBAGE PARMESAN

Like ex solant or chicken parmesan-or pizza, for that matter--the core of this dish is the interaction among the tomato, bread, and cheese. One could say the cabbage happens to be in the right place at the right time, but it adds body and sweetness while melting right in, and quietly carries the dish. As with other Parmesan-esque disties, this one is even better the next day.

SERVES up TO 8

2 tablespoons olive oil

3 cups chopped onion

1 (28-ounce) can crushed tomatoes or other tomato product (I use my frozen sauce)

1 (2-pound) head cabbage

1 tablespoon fresh thyme (or 1/2 tablespoon

dried)

1 tablespoon oregano (or 1/2 tablespoon dried)

3 cloves of garlic, cut crudely

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon garlic powder

1/2 teaspoon ground pepper

8-inch section of baguette, preferably sourdoush, or that amount of another white bread, cut into 1-inch cubes 11/2 cup grated Parmesan

Heat the olive oil in a heavy-bottomed or deep skillet with a tight-fitting lid, and sauté the onions, along with any meat and or mushrooms you may wish to add, on medium heat. While that's happening, toast the bread chunks under the broiler on a cookie sheet. Watch them carefully and don't let them burn.

Once the onions weep and cook down, about 10 minutes, add the tomatoes (don't toss the can), oregano, thyme, garlic, salt, pepper, and garlic powder. Fill the tomato can with a cup of water, swirl it around to catch the remains, and add the tomato water to the pot.

While the onions and tomatoes simmer, cut the cabbage into "noodles." Slice off the amount of cabbage you need, and lay it face down on the cutting board. Cut it into pie-like wedges, slicing toward the center from various angles on the autside of the hemisphere. The cuts should be about 1/2 inch apart.

Add these cabbage noodles to the pot and cook on medium for about 30 minutes with the lid on, until the cabbage is tender: Add the bread cubes and cheese, and stir it together as gently and briefly as possible. Toss a final sprinkle of cheese on top, cook for another 5 minutes, and turn off the heat Let sit, covered, for about 10 minutes, and serve.